Locations: Takayama, Hida Folk Village (Hida no Sato), Higashiyama Temple District, Sumiyoshi ryokan
This is the continuation of my week-long trip through central Japan! My second day in Takayama, underlined in blue on the left on the map below.
Anyway, my second day in Takayama began with a traditional Japanese breakfast in my ryokan, Oyado Yoshinoya. I once again struggled with a cooked river fish, but this time managed to consume the majority of it. Other challenges included tolerating the fishy taste of nori (dried seaweed), but otherwise the food was delicious! Even if it was a little strange eating more vegetables and meat for breakfast. Afterwards, I packed up, checked out and thanked the hosts for their kindness and wonderful cooking.
Although promised to be a sunny day, it was still overcast when I left the ryokan. Since it was still relatively early in the morning, I decided to head over to the morning markets by the riverfront. Every day, local farmers and craftspeople set up stalls from 6am to noon selling their wares, ranging from fresh produce to handcrafted souvenirs. After purchasing a few things to bring back home, I embarked on the 30 minute walk (being too lazy to look up bus stop locations) to the other side of town, to visit the Hida Folk Village, a collection of traditional farmhouses built in the local style hundreds of years ago.
The Hida Folk Village actually turned out to be nearly beyond the city limits on the other side of town, and the last 10 minutes of the walk consisted of a relatively steep climb into the hills. On the bright side, this gave me some great views of the city on the way down, once the weather cleared up. When I finally reached the village gate and bought my entry ticket, I saw that I was one of the first people there, so I would have the majority of the village all to myself for exploration! Considering that this was my substitution for the tourist-packed Shirakawa-go valley, the "guidebook-official" destination for preserved traditional mountain villages, having the freedom to wander around without constantly bumping into people was really quite nice.
While I'll let the pictures do most of the talking, I'll note that it really was a great feeling just exploring the village and poking into the open houses on my own. It wasn't necessarily breathtaking, but the atmosphere was very tranquil and set the mood perfectly. I spent almost 2 hours wandering around, and by the end of my walking tour, the sun had begun to peer out from behind the clouds.
Before returning to the main entrance gate, I stopped by the section of the village designated for traditional crafts. Here, several smaller buildings were set up with local craftsmen working in each one. There would be some chairs set up across the room, so that people could stop by and watch the craftsmen do their thing. In the woodcrafter's hut, there was even a display of recently-made small wooden charms available for sale. Most of the objects were expensive, as expected for handmade souvenirs inside a tourist attraction, but I managed to find a small wooden owl charm for a reasonable price, and decided to pay the craftsman my respects by purchasing it.
It was very sunny and warm by the time I left the village grounds and started making my descent back towards downtown. After catching the views from a small park dedicated to the city's sisterhood with Denver, I went in search for lunch in the city center. I ended up trying the local signature dish, "Hoba Miso Yaki", which consists of Hida-style miso paste with onions, veggies, mushrooms, and cuts of Hida beef all piled onto a sturdy magnolia leaf, which serves as a natural plate as the dish is gradually cooked over a small flame. I didn't get a picture of my own meal, but I've provided a result from Google-sensei that looks pretty close to the way mine was prepared.
Anyway, after my delicious meal, I continued walking through town and revisiting some places I had passed in the rain. After thoroughly exploring the old town, I took a stroll through the Higashiyama temple district, a trail through the wooded hillside in eastern Takayama with dozens of old temples and shrines. Many of these were still in use, as I would occasionally encounter a local in prayer or a group of passing monks. The walk occupied me for most of the remainder of the day, and the sun was almost on the horizon when I finally crossed town and arrived at the doorstep of Sumiyoshi ryokan, where I would stay that night.
This is the continuation of my week-long trip through central Japan! My second day in Takayama, underlined in blue on the left on the map below.
Anyway, my second day in Takayama began with a traditional Japanese breakfast in my ryokan, Oyado Yoshinoya. I once again struggled with a cooked river fish, but this time managed to consume the majority of it. Other challenges included tolerating the fishy taste of nori (dried seaweed), but otherwise the food was delicious! Even if it was a little strange eating more vegetables and meat for breakfast. Afterwards, I packed up, checked out and thanked the hosts for their kindness and wonderful cooking.
Although promised to be a sunny day, it was still overcast when I left the ryokan. Since it was still relatively early in the morning, I decided to head over to the morning markets by the riverfront. Every day, local farmers and craftspeople set up stalls from 6am to noon selling their wares, ranging from fresh produce to handcrafted souvenirs. After purchasing a few things to bring back home, I embarked on the 30 minute walk (being too lazy to look up bus stop locations) to the other side of town, to visit the Hida Folk Village, a collection of traditional farmhouses built in the local style hundreds of years ago.
At the front door with one of the hosts, and main chef, of the ryokan!
Walking through the quiet streets of old Takayama in the morning
Following a stream to the main river
The nothern end of the riverside Miyagawa morning market
Real matcha ice cream, anyone?
The Hida Folk Village actually turned out to be nearly beyond the city limits on the other side of town, and the last 10 minutes of the walk consisted of a relatively steep climb into the hills. On the bright side, this gave me some great views of the city on the way down, once the weather cleared up. When I finally reached the village gate and bought my entry ticket, I saw that I was one of the first people there, so I would have the majority of the village all to myself for exploration! Considering that this was my substitution for the tourist-packed Shirakawa-go valley, the "guidebook-official" destination for preserved traditional mountain villages, having the freedom to wander around without constantly bumping into people was really quite nice.
While I'll let the pictures do most of the talking, I'll note that it really was a great feeling just exploring the village and poking into the open houses on my own. It wasn't necessarily breathtaking, but the atmosphere was very tranquil and set the mood perfectly. I spent almost 2 hours wandering around, and by the end of my walking tour, the sun had begun to peer out from behind the clouds.
Before returning to the main entrance gate, I stopped by the section of the village designated for traditional crafts. Here, several smaller buildings were set up with local craftsmen working in each one. There would be some chairs set up across the room, so that people could stop by and watch the craftsmen do their thing. In the woodcrafter's hut, there was even a display of recently-made small wooden charms available for sale. Most of the objects were expensive, as expected for handmade souvenirs inside a tourist attraction, but I managed to find a small wooden owl charm for a reasonable price, and decided to pay the craftsman my respects by purchasing it.
View across the pond from the entrance gate (fall colors not quite kicking in yet...)
The thatched roofs are alive with mosses and grass!
Traditional altar inside one of the farmhouses
Silkworm exhibit, displaying one of the traditional crafts of the region
An incomplete silk fan, showing the tedious work of the silkworms
Walking past small rice plots in the village
Climbing up to the local shrine, hidden in the woods directly above the village
Beautiful restored artwork on the wooden ceiling tiles of the shrine
One of the cute "guardians" at the foot of the shrine
The weather clears up as I return to the center of the village
Looking out over Takayama
It was very sunny and warm by the time I left the village grounds and started making my descent back towards downtown. After catching the views from a small park dedicated to the city's sisterhood with Denver, I went in search for lunch in the city center. I ended up trying the local signature dish, "Hoba Miso Yaki", which consists of Hida-style miso paste with onions, veggies, mushrooms, and cuts of Hida beef all piled onto a sturdy magnolia leaf, which serves as a natural plate as the dish is gradually cooked over a small flame. I didn't get a picture of my own meal, but I've provided a result from Google-sensei that looks pretty close to the way mine was prepared.
Anyway, after my delicious meal, I continued walking through town and revisiting some places I had passed in the rain. After thoroughly exploring the old town, I took a stroll through the Higashiyama temple district, a trail through the wooded hillside in eastern Takayama with dozens of old temples and shrines. Many of these were still in use, as I would occasionally encounter a local in prayer or a group of passing monks. The walk occupied me for most of the remainder of the day, and the sun was almost on the horizon when I finally crossed town and arrived at the doorstep of Sumiyoshi ryokan, where I would stay that night.
Crossing the Miyagawa river in the center of town
Colorful carp swimming along the shore
Downriver
One of the preserved merchant streets in old Takayama
Walking by peaceful tree-lined rivers through old Takayama
One of the many temples along the Higashiyama trail
A small shrine still in common use
Small pond with a stone bridge in front of one of the temples
Passing by a larger temple complex
Setting sun through a stone torii gate
A feline welcome at Sumiyoshi ryokan
While my first ryokan in Takayama had a cozy, family-like feel to it, Sumiyoshi ryokan really lived up to its self-title of "antique inn". Though not large, its lobby had an impressive array of traditional crafts and furnishings, and every hallway had a multitude of drawings and figurines on display. My room was the same size as the previous night and similarly decorated, and also included complimentary green tea.
Unlike my previous night, this time my dinner was served to me personally, with several more small traditional dishes brought out every time I finished a set. There was even a complimentary glass of local umeshu (Japanese sweet plum liquor)! By the end of my meal, I was very full and very satisfied! Of course, no day in Japan and stay in a ryokan would be complete without a dip in the onsen after dinner, so I did just that before falling fast asleep. Day two, complete!
Unlike my previous night, this time my dinner was served to me personally, with several more small traditional dishes brought out every time I finished a set. There was even a complimentary glass of local umeshu (Japanese sweet plum liquor)! By the end of my meal, I was very full and very satisfied! Of course, no day in Japan and stay in a ryokan would be complete without a dip in the onsen after dinner, so I did just that before falling fast asleep. Day two, complete!
The lobby in Sumiyoshi ryokan, with a huge set of antiques on display
A set of samurai armor guards the passage further into the inn
A traditional gathering room, with an irori (Japanese sunken hearth)
Walking through the decorated hallways of the inn
My room!
Dinnertime
The first of multiple sets of food that were brought out!
A delicious-looking sukiyaki pot with strips of Hida beef, waiting to be cooked
Day two: complete!
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